Mainliner 

P "5" and "6" seem to combine fairly well with a wee runout and some longer slings. The other pitches have such great belay ledges that making them longer seems unnecessary.

Climbed Mainliner this past Saturday and was impressed. This route has everything on it. Gear recommendations include a set of stoppers to a #4 Camalot, although it is possible to leave the #4 behind. The hike to Sundance Buttress offers very nice views of the ridge.

Climbed this route mid-June. An outstanding Lumpy crack climb. The cracks are not flared, but good and secure. The 3rd pitch has two short sections of 5.9. I'm 6'6" and with my wing span the opposing dihedral stem felt pretty easy. My shorter wife had a much harder time with this. The 2nd 5.9 is a great finger crack thru a bulge. We did the east saddle descent.

You could do this climb without cams at all. I didn't even have to place the gear -- the cracks sucked the stoppers right off of my rack.

So far, this is my favorite route at Lumpy, with great cracks. The opposing corners section made me giggle. The pod was grand and I was able to sew it up because I was afraid of something.

Did a rope solo on this route and thought it was excellent and deserving of 3 stars. The climb has a little of everything with outstanding rock quality. I would leave the #4 cam at home and stick with a standard rack with a good selection of medium and large nuts. Would also say that the route is closer to an 8+. While the climbing is consistent, there are really only a couple of 9ish moves

This route felt so perfect in every way. The crux for me also was the crack/bulge section, not the stemming part below. I'm pretty sure this can be done in 4 pitches without drag if you're exiting at the walkoff ledge below the summit. We did it in 5, but our 5th pitch was ~30 feet maybe, and I think we had at least that left.

For lengths: P1 105 ft, P2 150 ft, P3 160 ft, P4 160 ft, P5 70 ft. You can rap off P 1 & 2 from in situ rap anchors - 2 ropes though.

Combined P 4 and 5 into a 200 footer. I had just enough rope to tie a figure eight. There was a good seam 15 feet up from the ramp exit that took .75 and 1 Camalots for an anchor. It's smart to save a bigger piece for the final crack (last 50'). I didn't. I'm 5'8" and could stem the crux.

This is a great route, but not very sustained and a lot of the climbing felt like scrambling over blocky sections. That is why I didn't give it 3 stars, but only 2.

The crux is only 1-2 moves and even for shorter folks, only 9-. I didn't stem between the 2 corners, but instead put my left foot and left hand in the left corner/crack and my rights on the face. Plenty of face holds and excellent friction make this fairly easy.

Nuts really do the trick here. We linked the climb into about 4 pitches and only brought single cams from small Aliens to #2 Camalot. I ended up placing mostly nuts on the crux pitch and ran the rope all the way out without running out of gear. Actually, I think by the time I set up the belay, I only had 2 nuts left!

WARNING: Do not attempt this route unless you are prepared for serious fun!

I agree it's not all that sustained, but the easier bits are still fairly steep but just juggy. There are no bad or waste-of-time pitches. I also found the grades to be quite lenient although I think the bulge finger crack does warrant 9/9-.

After humping 2 sets of cams and only a few nuts up there and trying to slot cams into nut placements I'd agree that nuts are the way to go (I'd recommend 1 set of cams and 2 sets of nuts). I also did the 'crux' by just using the left side of the corner (not stemming) and thought the 9- bulge was the real crux.

P1 - one spot of 5.7-ish; P2 - one spot of 5.7, rest is 5.6; P3 - 5.9; P4 - 5.7; P5 - 5.6.

This is a great route! The rock is solid and the moves are fun and well protected. I see no reason for this route to be considered two stars. I have done worse three star routes at Lumpy. Climb it!

One of the best routes I've done at Lumpy and my 1st on Sundance. The route has great face and crack climbing moves with bomber protection. The whole route eats stoppers and so do the belays. The stem moves on the P3 were great and well protected. I thought the crux was the bulge moves above the stem. Just fire it and you can get a great #1 Camalot when you get your feet back under you. Great route!! [Can't] wait to try Sidetrack.

Fantastic route! Crux pitch eats medium stoppers.

Great climb, But I agree with Dr. Dan. Not sustained, maybe 8-ish, Protects well with nuts only!

The first two pitches can be linked together with a 70m rope, just barely. Makes for a really enjoyable long pitch, be sure to have enough slings.

70m Beta: Did this route last week in 3 pitches with a 70m. Pitch one: 210 feet to belay on sloping ledge after the face climbing (5.6ish). Pitch two: 220 feet to the sloping ledge to the top of pitch 4 in the low angle area in the original route description. Pitch three: 210 feet to low angled walk-off area. No problems with rope drag as it is mostly straight up. Hope that helps if anyone wants to save some time with a 70m rope. Cheers! AK

Pitch 5 variation- 5.10b (or so) after stepping left on pitch 4, continue up about 15 ft to a nice ledge. Look to your right and see a steep lieback crack (with some orange lichen) that traverse sl. left under a roof. This is a great protectable pitch, that offers a nice alternative to the standard 5th pitch.

The Rossiter lengths are off on this climb in his book. Here is how they really breakdown compared to what he wrote. FWIW, I did the climb in 3 pitches as Andrew Klein's beta suggested and it worked nicely.

P1 (P1 + P2) - 210 ft. to the small ledge about 10 feet lower than the original end of P2. Rossiter calls the 1st pitch 150 and the 2nd 160. This is impossible since we did both with a 70 meter.

P2 (P3 + P4) 190 ft. The crux stem and small pod and 8 crack to sloping ledge

P3 (P5+P6) 170 ft. The 8 crack of the ledge and then the climbs turns in to 4 class and low 5th. We broke right towards the saddle at this point.

70M rope gets you to the ledge 20’ or so below the stemming crux. We used a brand new rope that might be a little longer than 70M, keep that in mind. We climbed the route in three pitches to the saddle. Two sets of nuts and single set of cams to #2 Camalot. The topo picture here shows the line going left of the 5.9 crux on the second pitch listed in Rossiter’s book. This crux move on this pitch is slightly right and straight up from the circle marking the belay. Fun route not sustained.

Descent information:
From the saddle, we moved east then down the slabs into the gully. This gully sucks. It’s full of downed trees, bushes, and boulders. We found the trail 2/3 of the way down this gully and were thankful for it. If someone knows of a way to rap down the eastern summit, please list it here, because that gully is awful.

A friend and I did this route last summer. He lead the hard pitches as they're above my ability level. It was an absolute blast! This is a must do route; especially if you've not climbed here before.

Go straight up off the belay at the top of pitch one. The dihedral into the wee roof is awesome and adds another spot of 5.9 to the route. From there 200ft takes you to ledges above the stem dihedral and right below the thin crux bulge. Supa sweet.

We did this classic climb today as four pitches with double 60s, and it was great! Lightning, rain and hail made the last pitch pretty intense. With three climbers and the seconds climbing at the same time, we were back at the base in a little under 4 hrs.

P1. ~190' cimb the corner through the roof slot to a belay at rope's end.
P2. ~195' through the crux and up continuing until the detached pillar. Set belay in the crack to the right.... I was out of rope.
P3. ~180' continue up and belay before the wide slot.
P4. ~70' up the slot and right to belay on a ledge.

Walk off.

Great route! Sundance rules.