Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Hen and Chickens
Show routes:
Select route...
Cackle Crack 
Hagakure 
Rhode Island Red 
Rooster Tail 
Two In The Pink 
Yosemite Crack 

Rooster Tail 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 110 feet
Views: 534 page views

Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Note, some of these cliffs are often closed (Mar 3 - July 31) for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Mike finally at a comfortable spot, resting up for...


Description 

This route is on the Hen and Chicken Rock (to quote one guidebook, when is a hen not a chicken?), which is the small, 100 foot high buttress (with pointy top) just below the SE corner of the East Owl. The approach that leaves the Gem Lake trail after about 1/4 mile leads directly to it. Rooster Tail is the prominent right-arcing hand and fist crack on the left side of the rock; near the top, follow a thin finger crack that slashes back left (crux). Walk off east.


Protection 

Standard rack; bring a #3 Camalot.



Add Photo Photos of Rooster Tail
Justin Dubois on top of Rooster Tail<br />Twin owls in the back

Justin Dubois on top of Rooster Tail
Twin owls in ...

Reeves eyeballing the 9+ finish to Rooster Tail...

Reeves eyeballing the 9+ finish to Rooster Tail...


Add Comment Comments on Rooster Tail
Show which comments —
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 24, 2005
rating: 5.9+

The term of finger crack seems generous. It seemed to climb much more like a face climb...somewhat reminiscent of the Perfect Finger Crack of Boulder Canyon.

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.9+

Agree with you Leo, the last 10' of this climb is up the face to the left of the crack, using the crack maybe twice in that span for right hand finger tip lock outs. Nice finish on good rock with very gritty texture.

By Petro
From: Golden, CO
Aug 1, 2005

A [challenging] finish is to continue the arching crack all the way up. It protects fine, and is a fun flarey offwidthy face/like finish. I'd say 9+.

By grega
From: CO
Jul 31, 2006
rating: 5.9+

Climbed this route yesterday, and it was very fun. Crack seemed to get bigger as you went (scrapes all over my left leg says so). Why does the "proper route" go left? Seems much more fluid to keep following the natural arching feature to the right (so I did). Fun and challenging finish (for me). Interesting feet, too. You'll want to stay in the crack, but really can't, because it starts to arch too much. Don't worry as there are lots of feet on the face at this point. I recommend NOT leaving the bigger gear (3 to 4 BD) in the car... Oh yeah, had the whole area to ourselves ALL day.. cheers

By Larry Pedigo
May 13, 2008

RT offers a lot of variety for only being a single pitch. It's broken up into three distinct sections, each of which requires a different technique. After slotting some perfect jams, and then balancing (or fighting) your way along the arching crack, you are treated to some thoughtful and delicate face moves.