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Nikki making tough 5.11 moves up to the belay atop...
Description
A quote-unquote classic... while good, I wouldn't say stellar.
P1. The base of the left side of the pear has a huge (30'), left-facing dihedral that arcs up and slightly left for about 200'. Start on a 40' buttress just to the left of this feature. Follow a hand crack about 50' before traversing left and belaying in a right-facing dihedral wherever looks most comfortable.
Pitch 2: Follow this dihedral up and then arc left, belaying about 30' right of the huge tree after about 100'. You can walk off to the left here.
Pitch 3: Take the left-facing dihedral/slanting ramp that continues up for about 120' of easy 5.5 climbing. Belay at a v-slot that is heading up and slightly right. Eds. Note, there are at least 3 options here.
Pitch 4: Follow said v-slot up mostly easier climbing for about 100', aiming to be below what appears to be the main north-facing headwall. A gigantic (40 people) ledge area and set up a comfy belay.
Pitch 5: Eds. Note, there are at least 4 options here. Option 1: Wander directly right, and then follow a small, right-facing corner up until you can exit around the right corner (5.7) of this obstacle. Cruise up the "natural line" directly up, perhaps a little left. If you have a 60m rope, you can make the top just BARELY. With a 50m, grab a belay spot somewhere along the way. Option 2: go up a right-leaning dihedral which looks to have little for the feet. Move right of the dihedral near the end. Delicate. Fire the wide, briefly overhanging crack above (namesake?). Option 3: Head left with a variety of zig-zag options that eventually gain the arete on the left. Option 4: quickly reach the arete on the left. Fire for the top.
Protection
Standard rack.
Add PhotoPhotos of Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe
The Land family on top of pitch 4.
Myke turning the corner of P5.
The grassy beginning of the first pitch
The rap north off the summit and into the trench.
2nd pitch of Magical Chrome Plated... P1 and P2 c...
The 5.9 variation on the last pitch. Instead of g...
Add CommentComments on Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe
The first two pitches are quite good. You're not missing much other than the view if you take the walk-off here. From the big ledge on top of the second pitch, you can also move left to the next left-facing dihedral and finish on Pig With Earrings, with better, but more exciting 5.7 climbing on a clean slab. Some really dumb people I know do this by accident (hmm... I wonder if that #4 stopper will hold this 60 footer?)
The regular finish is, IMO, a whole lot of 5.7. An easier route to the summit traverses left under the bulgy overhanging section (and left of the obvious overhanging fist crack) to a small ledge. Belay here if rope drag is an issue, and then head up a very short 5.5 crack to the easy summit slabs. Two sets of rap anchors - the ones on the left (climber's left) side of the summit are quality, while the ones on the right side of the summit make up for lack of quality with quantity.
Excellent moderate route! P1 is slightly runout before the belay, keep your cool! The second pitch is one of the best moderate dihedrals I've climbed at Lumpy. Routefinding on the upper section can be a bit tricky and there are several ways to go on p. 3. After the rap off the summit, it is possible to walk off to the west, although this involves downclimbing some 5.0 slabs. After these slabs you join with the walk off from pitch 2 of this route.
Nice route, especially pitch 2. Good moderate, good pro and not very hard (5.7, I guess). The first pitch didn't seem too polished to me but is runout a tad to the belay. Still not that bad. Also- we moved our 4th belay about 25-30ft right into a corner for the summit pitch. Went straight up then around an overhang on the right. Nice move, pretty easy. Then just wanderered up and belayed near the top- watch out for rope drag and getting your rope caught in a crack. Good stuff all around.
I love this route! Have done it numerous times. No one has mentioned a variation that is a blast! Start La Chaim and face climb towards the base of the Chrome Plated dihedral. Belay here and undercling around the overhang to join Chrome Plated. Bring a #4 Camalot.
Ok, I must have left my brain at the trailhead the day I did this climb. For those of you who are interested, here is a more detailed description of pitch one: Locate a block just left of the left-leaning, left-facing dihedral mentioned above. Scramble to the top of the block and locate several cracks. Pick a crack and go up, but not too far- you want to exit onto the ledge at about 25'. On this ledge, walk left a bit and ascend the left-facing flake. Don't go up the right-facing flake farther to the left. The crack runs out into positive hand and footholds. Traverse left when you find the easy holds. There's a place for a #8 Metolius/#2 Camalot on your way across. Belay comfortably in the alcove. P2 is a no-brainer.