King Tut 

Justin, you must have the longest arms in the world as to reach the bolt from Ramses you have to climb around a dihedral and out onto a thin slab at least 8 ft. away and no easy stretch. Plus, the climbing on Ramses is pretty easy there and the gear good. Got issues?

Just wanted to point out that in the photo below, the climber's right hand has full (and pressumably) firm grasp of the dihedral on Ramses. This however is not the usual beta for this route, as the climber pictured has a +34" ape index.

I think Eli is getting unwarranted grief for this route because of other incidents discussed on this site (that bolted boulder and the ASCA hangers). We toproped King Tut after doing Ramses and thought it was very good. It's a little tight between Cat Dancing and Ramses, but it's a separate line with good and (from what I can tell on TR) exciting climbing with hard climbing above the gear. As for the bolt, yes it can be clipped from Ramses if you step left ouf of the shallow corner for a rest, but it would add even more rope drag, and why bother, since there is good gear in the corner. I had no inclination to clip the bolt, and did not feel it detracted at all from Ramses.

In the first photo below the climber is shown climbing the right edge of the roof, with his hand on the edge of the Ramses dihedral. One person in our party climbed it that way, but the other two climbed the center of the roof directly below the bolt. That way you mostly avoid Ramses, although you will likely use one of the rest footholds near the dihedral.

We approached that first roof via the obvious cracks that lead to its left edge, but we later TR'd the shallow left facing dihedral further right. It's maybe hard 10 a ways above good gear that way to reach the roof, but it's a better line.

You can rap straight down the face with a 70m rope. A 60m won't reach, but it will reach various ledges, that may be possible to scramble down from. Perhaps better to rap west as Eli suggests.

What's up with the anchor not being equalized? Two bolts vertically oriented, but the links on the top bolt don't reach the ring on the bottom bolt. All the weight is thus on the top bolt. Needs one more link? Or is there some rationale for doing it this way?

Calling this an independent line is a joke. Using the rationale explained above, I could claim any number of independent lines just because I chose not to use obvious features on the cliff. Just think how many new FAs I could get on the Left Book! I could squeeze a line between White Whale and Hiatus (might need some bolts, got any ASCA hangers left...?), there's definitely a line between White Whale and The Dog, and, man, what an exciting traverse pitch it would be if you just called the walk-off ledge off-route. Imagine the possibilities...

This "route" is two to four feet left of Ramses for its entire length and four to six feet right of The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing. Is this what it's come to at Lumpy? If this kind of ridiculous squeeze job is what it takes to establish a first ascent, does anyone think it's worth it? To quote Scott Kimball, who saw the writing on the wall way back in 1984 (not '86, sorry Scott!), the rocks do not deserve this fate.

Anyone who did not move out left of the corner on Ramses to gain the rest stance would be making a major route-finding error, and Eli's bolt is easily within an arm's reach out on the face, and in regard to another comment posted above, if you put a 24" runner on that bolt when climbing Ramses, the rope would run totally straight. The only reason I didn't clip it is that I trusted the bomber #10 or 11 stopper right next to it in the crack more than Eli's bolt... That's my two (or three) cent's worth....