This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
BETA PHOTO
Description
The route described here is a variation of the route described by Rossiter, noted where this route breaks off from the main. At least four chimney systems run up the book end left of the fox head. This route starts between the 3rd and 4th (from left).
1. Start left of the Sicilian Defense chimney in either of two flared cracks (we took the left, and I believe the guidebook route avoids these by working in from the right). Climb to the base of another flared crack (again there are two, and we took the right this time, which seemed more protectable). Continue up the flared handcrack (bring stoppers especially for the top), go left at its end to the base of a large chimney (good belay, hand/fist cams useful here). 5.9, 120ft.
2. Climb the chimney/crack, fun and generally easier than it looks. Belay at a large ledge (end of chimney, big pieces useful for comfortable belay).
3. Move the belay 20 or 30ft to a stance in the Pinch chimney (belaying here on P2 probably difficult due to rope drag). Here we took a variation and climbed the Pinch chimney, mostly because it looked like fun (the crack on the right wall, standard pitch looked less appealing, but maybe it is nice). 5.8, 140ft or so to a good ledge. Again save a few hand and larger pieces for the belay.
4. Go up a little and right along a big ledge to a hand crack that stops about 5ft off the ledge. Climb the crack, which quickly becomes very low angle, and continue to the top of the formation. The crack mentioned here puts you back onto the regular route.
5. Walk across to the main wall (hard to describe but obvious when you are there) and jump or climb to the final section of the Bookend. About 150ft of low fifth class rock gets you to the top.
Protection
Cams and stoppers, size to a #4 Camalot. An extra fist or larger piece or two is useful for belays also.
A good early-season keelhaul. I wondered why no one had added any comments to this route in nearly four years. Now I understand. I recommend a standard rack plus extras in the .75 to 4 Camalot range and a few of the midsize Tri-Cams for the belays. Other optional but recommended gear includes knee and elbow pads, tape gloves or Hand Jammies, pruning shears, garden trowel, barnacle scraper, and a stiff wire brush. Safety glasses, ibuprofen, and some Band-Aids would be useful as well. I gave this route one star--its length and excellent views should count for something. Of course, most routes at Lumpy have great views.
The Bookend
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