This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Alignment of the Misaligned is indicated here. Se...
Description
This line may draw your attention with the glint of light off the lone bolt sitting above a crack on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. In Rossiter's guide, it is listed as a variation to Second Thoughts, 5.10a, with a more direct finish, hence the name. There is an obvious crack system behind a dead tree just to the right, which can be liebacked. There are other lines to play on here (Sunset Arete, Chip's Tantrum, One of Life's Little Problems & its 5.8 variation, Black Lichen Streak, Second Thoughts, and Thin Crack) on a sunny late fall or winter day.
Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up & R on a trail until you come to a large RFD is described as an alcove in the Gillett guides. It is probably 400 ft up and R.
Fire up this deceptively-demanding crack which goes halfway up this short buttress just L of a dead tree (which lies 60 ft R of the large RFD). This crack is awkward to start and requires jamming off a sausage-sized L index finger jam and R hand gaston to pinches above. The difficulty eases until you can clip the bolt above. Here you have choices of desperate, steep slabbing directly above with a crux above the bolt (rated 10+ but felt 11b) or perhaps moving right (Second Thoughts, 5.10a) on feldspar knobs to a shallow slot up and right. Belay at a tree. 60 ft. Currently, there is no rappel anchor.
You can also reach this tree by climbing the start to One of Life's Little Problems (to #4 Camalot) and then traverse right (#2 Camalot) to the tree.
Twin Owls
RSS Feed
