This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
Located left of English Opening on the Eumenides Slab. So who the hell would hike all the way up to [Sundance] to do a one star [route]?? well... I would and so should you if you've already done the standard classics on [Sundance] or if you're just looking for something a little more adventurous.
After all, Adrenaline covers some 800 ft of climbing making it the longest route on [Lumpy]? The Gillett guidebook says its 9 pitches, although with a 60m rope you can link a few of these together. And though some of the pitches wander a bit and don't always have the best pro, it's still a good climb in my book. This route has some excellent rock!
Bring your route finding skills and don't worry, the 5.9 runout [isn't] that bad.
Since the [existing] comments are at best neutral, I would like to suggest an upgrade (in terms of quality not difficultly) on the [route]. I have climbed it with a partner (John Varco) and solo. I thought both climbs were very good with solid rock requiring varied techniques. Some hand jamming on the crux move, and some finger jamming on P4, stemming, face climbing and chimney moves are all there. If you want to climb a relatively long [route] with [good] quality [consistent] climbing in the 5.7-5.9 range this one is well worth your while.
Sundance Buttress
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