The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Checkerboard Rock Lightning Rock Batman Rock Batman Pinnacle Thunder Buttress The Parish Alligator Rock SheepMountain Twin Owls Rock One
These closures include the named formations as well as areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. The perimeter around Alligator Rock extends for 200 yards in all directions. Closures include all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber access trails to the named rock formations. Check the park’s website at the address below for updated information on raptor closures.
A different way to get to the Fat City chimney. Note that this route is one and a half pitches of 5.8 and that the second pitch ends with the FC crux which is 5.10. The regular FC start is superior. The first pitch of The 44 is a no star, but P2 has some nice climbing.
Start about 50 feet left of the regular FC start at a wide, bushy crack with bushy dogleg left at about 20'.
Grovel up the first 20' hitting a hard spot at about 15'. Walk the dogleg then continue up. About 30' after the dogleg there is a good spot to belay which needs 3" gear. Gillett indicates the belay is about 30' higher at an old, useless bolt with no stance; this looked like a poor place to belay. After the bolt there is a nice handcrack which deposits you at the base of the FC chimney. Proceed up FC.
Just climbed this the other day and found that setting a belay just after the dog leg in the pod makes for a beautiful link up with the Fat City roof. I would almost say I like this approach better than the regular approach because it ends up being like 80 ft. of hands up to the bombay slot below the roof.
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