This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
A different way to get to the Fat City chimney. Note that this route is one and a half pitches of 5.8 and that the second pitch ends with the FC crux which is 5.10. The regular FC start is superior. The first pitch of The 44 is a no star, but P2 has some nice climbing.
Start about 50 feet left of the regular FC start at a wide, bushy crack with bushy dogleg left at about 20'.
Grovel up the first 20' hitting a hard spot at about 15'. Walk the dogleg then continue up. About 30' after the dogleg there is a good spot to belay which needs 3" gear. Gillette indicates the belay is about 30' higher at an old, useless bolt with no stance; this looked like a poor place to belay. After the bolt there is a nice handcrack which deposits you at the base of the FC chimney. Proceed up FC.
Just climbed this the other day and found that setting a belay just after the dog leg in the pod makes for a beautiful link up with the Fat City roof. I would almost say I like this approach better than the regular approach because it ends up being like 80 ft. of hands up to the bombay slot below the roof.
The Book
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