This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
[Undoubtedly] parts of this 220 meter route has been climbed before, people wandering off Eumenides, Adrenaline etc.. But it is totally independent,and has escaped any description in all guidebooks beginning in 1970 with Walter Fricke. Ever so [humbly] this is a route linked together after a look in 2004. Without putting my head in a noose I say this is among Sundance's finest rockclimbs. Begin 30M left of Eumenides. 1. Start up a clean corner to a roof with a nice V slot, handcrack. Aim towards a left angling, L. facing dihedral. Near its top half, follow face and flakes out to the left past a girthitched solid chickenhead. Continue with some 5.7R faceclimbing to a large (Eumenides)ledge, 55 meters, 5.9. 2. Angle left up easy open dihedral. Pass an unique natural arch, then a flared crack, to a small pillar draped with rapslings. Boldly [go] up 5.9+R face, then hit larger holds climbing just left of a large clump of Jamesia Shrubs. The crux fingercrack is [straight] above, 5.11-. Save some go for the ending. Where the crack Y's, diagonal right(5.10 an a bit runout). Belay inside a classic, two person, sentry box, 55 meters. 3. Climb right trending, twin cracks past 2 fixed pieces (not ours) 5.9. Nail an insecure 5.11- bulge. Fight past a bush (the President!)and into a major leftfacing dihedral system. Belay on a good ledge after approx. 30 meters. 4. Do 55 meters up this excellent, clean dihedral 5.9 and finish over a roof. 5. 20 meters of low 5th class to top. Best off, unrope and head toward summit begin [curving] NE'ward but always well above exposed slabs,into the top of East Desent Gully.
Maybe 3* if it cleans up a little -- loses some lichen. A very good Sundance route, but a notch below Idiot Wind, Whiteman or Sidetrack, for starters.
The first 11- section seemed much harder, maybe a number grade, to me than the second. My (much taller) partner felt that the first was only slightly harder than the second.
We took the left fork of the Y crack after the P2 crux; this went at about 5.9 but introduced more rope drag.
The chickenhead mentioned in the P1 description no longer exists. It deattached as I was yarding on it, resulting in a head first 30' plunge after which I was very glad I was wearing a helmet. Without the CH, it makes sense to stay in the corner longer and do a horizontal traverse left from near the top of the corner.
Sundance Buttress
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