Sojourn 

FA:  Steve Muehlhauser and Sarah Spaulding, 1984 Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 99 page views Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 12, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

The route Sojourn is a thin crack/face testpiece and feels much harder than the 11a rating given by the first ascensionists. It starts just to the right of Melvin's Wheel on a buttress separated by a 4th class gully. The route faces directly west making it a cool pitch for much of the day. Tiny gear placements make this a reasonable but serious lead. The two bolt anchor at the top of the pitch was installed by Topher Donahue in the late 80s. It is possible to scramble to the top of this cliff to set-up a top-rope on this very interesting line. A direct finish straight up the obvious crack was freed by Eli Helmuth in 2001 which bumps the rating up to 12a. #1 TCUs and #3 and #4 Camalots are helpful in doing this sustained and technical finish directly to the anchors. The original finish traversed right around the corner to easier ground.

Protection 

Tiny nuts, smallest cams and a red tri-cam is helpful for the second crux section.