Bucket Brigade 

FA:  B. Westbay & S. Kimball, 1981 Type:  Trad, TR Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 103 page views Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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topo of Bucket Brigade, watch out for the bucket

Description 

This is a short route on the N face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It lies just uphill & L of Stud Pile. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable. Not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.

Approach this as for the E side of Twin Owls & [Gollum's] Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies E of Twin Owls & is down & E of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.

On the N face of Triangle Rock there is a series of 4 dihedrals. The line that best seems to match S. Kimball's guidebook description of gritty flakes seems to start just to the L of the L-most dihedral (Perhaps S. Kimball can clarify?). Step up, find pro in a horizontal to the L, move up into the dihedral with face holds on the R. Gain the top of a flake. Here you step R with a bit of an airy feeling aiming for a prominent jug/bucket to the right. Find a small cam placement before you reach the bucket. Note, the bucket does not feel solid (hence, the taste for a TR); however, you can face climb on smaller features & avoid this bucket. Fire to the top. 60 ft

You can walkoff down the S face and exit E.

Protection 

Mostly cams, slings, bit of trust. TR anchors are 0.75 to 1 camalot size.