This is an interesting, little route that is less travelled and is tucked in on a chunk of rock lying just below the main part of Gollum's Arch Rock. It is visible in S. Kimball's Lumpy Ridge guide on p.31 just down & L of the 78 on the page. It is also depicted just under the 6 on p.28 of B. Gillett's RMNP Estes Park Valley guide. It's fun & worth the romp (wee bit of spice) if you're in the area.
Find this by approaching Gollum's Arch, just E of Twin Owls. You continue E & down a gully to a chunk of rock with big water grooves on its W face & a lonesome set of 3 bolts on its S face. It lies a stone's throw from Triangle Rock, just to the E.
To climb it, boulder up, move L on an angling dike to clip the 1st bolt. Continue angling L to the 2nd bolt, staying low. Now go up on crystals and liebacks to clip a fixed wired. Highstep/mantle up and clip the 3rd bolt. Go up or move L and then up (easier) to a R-angling ramp. Go R and find grooves & cracks to finish about 120 ft up at a tree. You'll get a bit of rope drag on the top of this climb.
Walkoff/downclimb R.
Protection
3 bolts, 1 fixed wire, 4-5 cams green Alien to #2 Camalot.
Sounds like the one that traverses left off the ground to some bolts and a fixed wire. Don't know what the name of it is, but it felt like 5.9 when we did it last winter.
By Eli Helmuth From: Estes Park, CO Jul 26, 2005 rating: 5.8+
Rick Hurley and I put this route up on a lead climbing course in July of '02. It was Rick's first lead and we named it Hurlin' - 5.8. I didn't think it was quite up to the Lumpy 5.9 standard. This is a fun little route which complements the nearby East Ridge of the Twin Owls (5.8+).
I spotted this on a somewhat off-route descent from Gollum's Arch and thought it looked attractive, so we did it. Fun first half. I didn't mind the fixed nut. It looks real solid, and added some interest. The second half was easy and a little grungy. Perhaps it could have ended on the arete to the left at a number grade (guessing) harder. There's a chopped bolt an inch or so below the second bolt. What's that about? Was the original bolt replaced? That seems odd if the route was first put in in 2002.
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