This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Topo.
Description
This is an interesting, little route that is less travelled and is tucked in on a chunk of rock lying just below the main part of Gollum's Arch Rock. It is visible in S. Kimball's Lumpy Ridge guide on p.31 just down & L of the 78 on the page. It is also depicted just under the 6 on p.28 of B. Gillett's RMNP Estes Park Valley guide. It's fun & worth the romp (wee bit of spice) if you're in the area.
Find this by approaching Gollum's Arch, just E of Twin Owls. You continue E & down a gully to a chunk of rock with big water grooves on its W face & a lonesome set of 3 bolts on its S face. It lies a stone's throw from Triangle Rock, just to the E.
To climb it, boulder up, move L on an angling dike to clip the 1st bolt. Continue angling L to the 2nd bolt, staying low. Now go up on crystals and liebacks to clip a fixed wired. Highstep/mantle up and clip the 3rd bolt. Go up or move L and then up (easier) to a R-angling ramp. Go R and find grooves & cracks to finish about 120 ft up at a tree. You'll get a bit of rope drag on the top of this climb.
Walkoff/downclimb R.
Protection
3 bolts, 1 fixed wire, 4-5 cams green Alien to #2 Camalot.
Sounds like the one that traverses left off the ground to some bolts and a fixed wire. Don't know what the name of it is, but it felt like 5.9 when we did it last winter.
Rick Hurley and I put this route up on a lead climbing course in July of '02. It was Rick's first lead and we named it Hurlin' - 5.8. I didn't think it was quite up to the Lumpy 5.9 standard. I had just climbed one of Topher's routes at the time which had bolts and an epoxied nut and thought this was a good compromise then. Now I think epoxied nuts are kind of bogus. A fun little route which complements the nearby East Ridge of the Twin Owls (5.8+).
I spotted this on a somewhat off-route descent from Gollum's Arch and thought it looked attractive, so we did it. Fun first half. I didn't mind the fixed nut. It looks real solid, and added some interest. The second half was easy and a little grungy. Perhaps it could have ended on the arete to the left at a number grade (guessing) harder. There's a chopped bolt an inch or so below the second bolt. What's that about? Was the original bolt replaced? That seems odd if the route was first put in in 2002.
Gollum's Arch Rock
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