This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
Starts just left of the 5.7 variation start of Hand Jive. Gillett's guide gives this route a star, but once you get above the clean nice looking start, the dihedral is a loose chossy hunk and I wouldn't recommend it. I kept pelting my belayer with the flakes I was touching and occasional quartz knob that pulled off in my hand. This would probably be a good route if it was done more often and cleaned up.
1) Start about 15 feet left of the small pine tree that marks the 5.7 variation of Hand Jive. Stem up a wide slot with little pro and jam/lieback the dihedral where the slot ends. Climb about 100 feet to a point where a wide and very flared horizontal crack shoots out the left side of the dihedral.
2) Traverse left out the horizontal crack, then wander up mostly easy (and clean!) face to the summit.