This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
This is an exit pitch from the Cave near the top of the Book. If you belay at the base of the sandard exit for the Cave this route follows the crack just to your left coming out of the left side of the roof. It is one crack to the right of Final Chapter. Either climb up through the left side of the roof (not much pro) or move left and climb thin features on the face until you can reach right into the crack. Jam and lieback up and right (crux) blindly placing gear between grass filled sections of the crack. The options for pro are ok but not hugely abundant, it is difficult to see the placements and if even one piece were to pull out in a fall it could be nasty. Belay at a tree and continue up 4th class to Outlander's 2nd pitch or walk off to the right.
Protection
standard rack
Add CommentComments on M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave]
Everyone has a different opinion of each climb and I feel obligated to call this one a bomb. Greenery, not so solid rock and flared cracks inc. The worst exit wall climb I've done.
It might be true that Outlander and Cheap Date are more aesthetic, but this one is definitely more historic. Most now credit Sibley with an early ascent. What are you waiting for? Are you going to traverse-off your whole life?
The Book
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