KOAlien 

FA:  Jason Seaver, Nate A 3-20-05 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Sport Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 127 page views Submitted By: jason seaver on Mar 20, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The line of KOAlien.

Description 

This is the furthest East (right) route on The Book proper. Right of Fascist Drill In The West is The Campground route, and right again is Alien Algorithm (see description on this site). Our new little pitch starts right of Alien Algorithm, crosses it at its lone bolt, then goes left through the obvious roof / bulge. Start 15' right of Alien Algorithim in a left leaning crack, just right of a big tree. Climb the crack to where some hard moves up and right allow access to another thin, left leaning crack. Continue with more hard climbing to where you can pull out left to the foot ledge on top of Alien Algorithm's first roof. Clip the bolt on AA (newly replaced w/ 2 1/2" x 3/8" stainless steel bolt) and work out left under the roof to where some holds and a fixed wire lead over the bulge. Continue up a slabby arête to a slung horn anchor. This pitch was established headpoint style over three partial days, the first of which was spent falling, hanging, and aiding on ground-up attempts. Nate and I eventually both led it placing all the gear except the fixed wire. The fixed wire is fixed only because we couldn't get it out; it was placed free on the lead. All the hard climbing is well-protected, but the 5.9ish arête above the roof is runout. Pretty high quality and super fun climbing.

Protection 

Bring a light rack up to a red Camalot (although a gold can be used at the start). One bolt and one wire (currently) are fixed. Slung horn lower-off anchor at the top.