The Dog 

FA:  B. & R. Gillett, 1986 Type:  Trad Length:  3 pitches, 400 feet Views: 629 page views Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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3rd pitch of "The Dog"

Description 

This is a pleasant, 3 pitch route on the Left Book. It may not be quite the quality of Hiatus or White Whale, but it can provide a good alternative for those who have done the more popular classics enough that they have lost their charm or when the popular classics have queues leading to frustration. This line lies just L of White Whale on the 'almost climb anywhere slab.' It follows distinct terrain and is probably harder than White Whale or Manifest Destiny, but it seems easier than Hiatus or Beelzebub. The start lies near the nadir of the Left Book.

P1. This starts up in the L-facing dihedral with two loop-able horns above 15 feet up just L of White Whale. Follow this dihedral up easy terrain for 30 ft or so, you can sling the first tree of White Whale, then the difficulty ratchets up as the dihedral closes tighter than fingers (which feels like the crux) for a few moves. The dihedral opens up just above. There is a good rest before the dihedral fades. Where it fades, face climb (5.7) L with no protection for about 15-18 ft. Find a nice belay on a boulder in a notch. ~110 ft.

P2. From this notch lie two opposing dihedrals, take the R one (L-facing) to a small overlap (#3 Camalot), make a longish reach to a jug, pull over, slot a small cam (green alien size), move R to a pleasant, easy crack. Run this to a stance. ~165 ft.

P3. Continue up angling L with face & crack moves (perhaps 35 ft) & then angle R to a sloping ramp. Move over the ramp & gain a small R dihedral-like feature, find an old pin, face climb up to a small roof, pass the roof on the R. This bit above the pin may feel slightly runout. ~100 ft. 2.2 stars.

Apparently, P2 has a variation continuing straight over the overlap with 5.6 s climbing (perhaps 70 ft without protection).

Walk off L down the Paperback Ledge.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3.5 Camalot or #4 Friend. More hand to fist size if you sew up easy cracks.

Add Photo Photos of The Dog

Jeff Gunter on P1 at the crux.	Unknown climber stretching the pitches to make it ...	Ray Nieb on P3, fun, fun, fun...oh, it's The Dog.