Power Shortage 

FA:  Chris Banks, Howard Burkhart, and Lonnie Pilkington New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 106 page views Submitted By: spanky on May 1, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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I'm not convinced Ken and Chuck climbed this corre...

Description 

Power Shortage climbs the thin crack shooting up the narrow east face of Lightning Rock, just left of the gully between Lightning Rock and Bat Flake.

Start 15-20 feet right of the start of Short Circuit/Meltdown. Climb up to an A-shaped roof at the right edge of the low ceiling band and exit right onto the slab, quality 5.9. Face climb up and back left (loose, slightly runout) to a short right-facing corner. After the corner, gain a thin crack which widens to hands in an obvious slot after 40 feet. After this hand slot, escape right onto a ledge in the gully between Lightning Rock and Bat Flake. Crux is near the top, getting into the hand jams. The rock quality on the first half of the finger crack is excellent, but the rock becomes a bit friable higher up. Still, this is definitely a worthwhile route if you're in the area.

Rap from slings on chockstones, 15-20 feet up and right from belay (slings are somewhat hidden). Two rappels, the second from slings on a horn below Bat Flake, might be advisable to prevent your ropes from hanging up in the gully.

Protection 

Standard rack: stoppers, single set of cams to 2". For the anchor, use long slings and couple of nuts or 1-1.5" cams.