This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
BETA PHOTO: Done as 2 1/2 pitches.
Description
This is a pleasant romp up good rock at an easy grade. This route will wander up the lower-angled, L side of the SSW face/prow of Rock One. It connects nice features & can have plenty of variations at a similar grade. It has enough features and short-enough traverses to allow a shorter (6-8 year old) to ascend without excessive difficulty.
Note, this crag is often closed during raptor closures until July 31. Check the closures before heading here.
To find the start of the route, locate the nadir of the rock. There are 2 distinctive features that help locate the easiest start. Find a jutting prow of rock with a steep, L-facing dihedral. The start is just to the L by about 15 ft on a slab. Or, find a large, dead tree leaning against the lower L side of the face. The easiest start lies to the R by about 60 ft. Some brushy scrambling may be required to reach the start.
This route can be done in 2-5 pitches depending upon your desire & your rope length. Longer pitches will decrease your ability to communicate precisely with your partner(s). The exact line can vary immensely, but here is a line keeping with the grade on good rock:
P1. Ascend a slab angling L toward a tree (about 30 ft up) and pass the tree on the L to gain a ledge (optional belay). Here go L to the L of two cracks & ascend. Angle R up an angling crack across a slab. Climb a chimney next to a large dead tree leaning against the rock to a notch & belay. Sling the horn and back it up with a large cam. 5.4, 160 ft.
P2. Follow a crack just R of a blunt arete to a step R (a reach for the young) & ascend a slab to a roof. Skirt the roof going L (optional belay). Climb a short L-facing dihedral, a short slab, & belay on a slightly-sloping ledge. 5.4, 170 ft.
P3. Move R into a nearly-horizontal groove to a short slab with a R-angling crack above. Ascend this to 4th class terrain & the summit. 5.4, 100 ft.
Descent: scramble NNE (just R of the highest line) to walking terrain between Rock One & Twin Owls. If you didn't leave gear at the base, it may be easiest to hike up & behind Twin Owls and take the trail down the E side of Twin Owls.
Rock One
RSS Feed
