This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Farfrombright working out the crux.
Description
This awesome pitch is located in the gorgeous inset, left of Inside Straight and right of Virgin Spring. It's a brilliant, thin splitter that passes an overhang and the route continues up to the Library Ledge anchors (Melvin's). Bernard Gillett's book gives this pitch an "R" rating, which may be fitting, all the gear is small, the rock not so-travelled, and the crack a little weedy. But after watching J-dog piss on it, it looked pretty well protected. Nontheless, this pitch is a spectacular, spicy, exercise in slabbing,thin crack and rp-ing. Three stars may be a bit generous but it's sooo good and with traffic will clean up quickly. Enjoy!
Protection
Lots of small stuff. RPs and TCUs, [bring a full rack for up top]. Addendum: tricams may be useful.
Tri-cams can be useful at the start. The gear gets better as you get higher. This is an awesome pitch marred only by a lack of traffic. Winter or spring are perhaps the best seasons for it since the plants growing from the thin crack aren't in "bloom".
The Bookmark
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