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The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing 

5.11a

   

FA: Kimball & Salaun 1979
Type: Trad
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 142 page views

Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 2, 2004


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.

Beginning the 10 section. King Tut and Rameses are...


Description 

This climb works up the left edge of south face of the Isis Buttress. It features fairly typical low angle Lumpy climbing on bottoming, hard to protect cracks.

Start on a pillar at the SW corner of the buttress. Climb easily for about 30' to a short left facing corner that forms the left side of a "hanging tooth." Work up the corner to a face and to another left-facing corner; this 30' section is continuously challenging as is protecting it, though with enough effort, good pro can be had -- mostly small wires. The crux is at the top of the 30' section after which you step left onto the the west face and join Pharaoh's Child for about 70' of enjoyable 5.8ish crack climbing. Belay at the second tree from which you also rap; a single 60m rope would probably reach the ground, but we had double ropes and rapped on both.


Protection 

RPs to 2" with the emphasis on the small end.



Add Photo Photos of The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing
At the top of the corner on the 10 section. From here you angle right across shallow grooves with not much gear and not much to hold or stand on.

At the top of the corner on the 10 section. From h...

Starting the 11 section. Greg had 2 brass nuts, the lower one really small, and the upper one better, backed up by a doubtful cam in a shallow pocket.

Starting the 11 section. Greg had 2 brass nuts, th...


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By Ivan Rezucha
Jun 5, 2008

After the crux we moved right to the two-bolt anchor of King Tut. A 70m just makes it to the ground. With a 60m you should be able to get to some ledges from which you can scramble down.