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Crystal Catch 

5.9 R

   

FA: Scott Kimball, Harry Kent 1976*
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 150 feet
Views: 129 page views

Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 21, 2003


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Note, some of these cliffs are often closed (Mar 3 - July 31) for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Looking for the last gear before the crystal runou...


Description 

Crystal Catch is a good route to end your day at Checkerboard. A couple of hard moves low down followed by runout knob climbing at about 5.7. The runout can be eased by moving right to get gear (use very long slings). At the top of the first pitch are slings to rappel from. There is a second pitch, but I've never done it. My 1986 Scott Kimball guide says this of P2: "Proceed up sharp crystals to Surrey Ledge. Choose a groove which is second from the left and take it to the top."

  • My Kimball guide says of the first ascent: "Description Kimball, Harry Kent; 1976." I assume this means first ascent unknown; first known ascent, Kimball, Kent. Maybe Scott can clear this up.


Protection 

Light standard rack. Long slings, especially if you expect to place gear on the right on the upper part of the first pitch.



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Hey, I think this is a variation of P2. The descriptions in the guidebook are a bit hard to figure out. So, it seems like that groove to the left is probably the correct line. This crack goes probably 5.8 PG-13. Watch the shirt on your right shoulder getting off Surrey Ledge, it can rip on those crystals.

Hey, I think this is a variation of P2. The descri...


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By S. Kimball
Jul 3, 2004

FA: Harry Kent, S.Kimball 1976. Way good. Pitch #1 up the crystal band is not run out??, trucker Tricam or sideways stopper. Pitch #2 killer 5.7/8 stemming all good pro and clean.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2006
rating: 5.9+

The only climbing I thought was moderately runout (more than 10' above gear) was pretty easy. Maybe 5.5 or 5.6 . The gear was a little tricky in spots though.