Off The Grid 

FA:  J. Seaver,S.Kimball New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  3 pitches, 350 feet Views: 296 page views Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on May 15, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Some steep crack climbing on Lumpy Ridge? Yep, the...

Description 

A multipitch route ascending new territory on Lightning Rock's west face.

P1.Begin west of Short Circuit near the edge of the south face in the righthand of 2 discontinuous dihedrals. Do run out face (5.7R) past a small ledge with a juniper bush. Double sling a flake for pro then up to bolt (3/8"/2.25") at the foot of a white seam. Thin 5.9 finishes the seam, then continue (#2 Camalot) to the pillar top belay of Short Circuit.

P2. Logistically (rope management and viewing the leader), it is best to downclimb west and belay from a Fir in the gully. Climb a left-leaning crack on the vertical west face. Struggle up overhanging, red rock with the help of a wedged block and fight past an offwidth section. More steep and awkward crack climbing leads to a stance where its possible to pull right, around the ridge, to a good belay near Short Circuit.

P3. Finish with that route.

Pitch 2 is a bit dirty, and sports some crusty foot holds, but has good pro and great technical jamming through strenuous, multiple cruxes.

Protection 

Large selection to #5 Camalot