Friction Addiction 

FA:  Eli Helmuth New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Sport Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 149 page views Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Sep 21, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route starts at a small pine, 40' left of the first pitch of Heaven Can Wait (10b). Crimpy moves get you past the first bolt to the overlap which takes both small cams. The crux is getting past the next bolt and onto the easier but slightly runout face climbing above.

This is a great warm-up pitch for Lycra Bikers from Hell (12a), Poultry in Motion (11d)or Flight for Life (12a)- all classic bolted pitches to the right of Friction Addiction.

You can continue up the Crescent Wall from the top of this pitch by joining either Heaven Can Wait to the right or Hair Lip to the left.

Protection 

The only pro needed is a #0 or #1 tcu for the first overlap, five draws for the bolts, and a large cord or sling for the tree anchor.