P1- Step around left, and jam two parallel cracks to a pleasant belay ledge with two new bolts, 5.7+ (75').
P2- Face climb up the arete past two bolts, the crux is about 12' above the second bolt. More great face climbing takes you past some gear and one more bolt (5.9 X). Then locate belay some 30' or 40' above third bolt (natural belay) 140'.
P3- Continue up the arete (5.9 R), work up and right past a bolt used on the Mariner (5.8 X), pull over the Sorcerer roof at a finger crack (5.9). Belay after 150'.
P4- Easy rock finds the top (5.5).
Variation: A direct start right of the first pitch was put up in the 80s by Hidetaka Suzuki (5.11+). Climb a leaning, finger crack with a pin at 2/3 height. Pulling off the ground is the crux, but it will definitely keep your attention the whole way.
Protection
Excellent, the epitome of Lumpy face climbing. This route ascends the 300-foot bluntish arete between the Mariner and Handbook. Start on the same grassy ledge from which Mariner and the Sorcerer start. (The bolts were replaced with Fixe wedge bolts, stainless steel 3/8" x 2 3/4") on 9-13-03. Standard Lumpy rack.
The route proper is vs, but the variation is well protected. This is my first contribution to this site, and I guess I don't quite have it figured out. You should also know that it is possible to link the main arete in one pitch. From the two bolt anchor to the roof is 200' of great, spicy climbing. That was the way I head pointed the route, and to me it seemed safer. The belay on the arete might not be the best. Cheers!
RSS Feed
