This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
As the only moderate offering on the right side of the Book this is a great route especially if you want to sneak in a quick climb with rapid escape options. Large overhangs guard the lower part of the wall right of the Mission Impossible Dihedral. This route follows a crack system through the only reasonable (for mere mortals anyway), break through the overhangs, just right of Fascist Drill in the West.
Start up a pair of cracks and angle right through the overhang at a finger crack,(crux 5.7+). Continue up the nice, steep 5.6 handcrack above to a stance next to a small tree on the right. It is possible to rap off to the right here at the tree or continue up the lower angled and ever-widening crack above to where it turns into a chimney. Descend to the right,east.
This is a long 150+ ft. pitch and protects very well.
Protection
Standard rack with extra larger pieces for the top half of the route.
The Book
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