Slippage 

FA:  unknown Type:  Trad Length:  2 pitches, 400 feet Views: 863 page views Submitted By: Errett Allen on Sep 1, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Starting up the 5.9+ / 5.10a crux.

Description 

Find the break in the long roof band to the right of the Batrachian Slab route. A brushy chimney descends from below this break. Scramble up to a pine tree to the right of this chimney that is about 60-70 feet off the deck and belay from this tree.

P1: Ascend easy face cracks and face above the tree toward the roof band and clip an old manky bolt. Diagonal up and left above the bolt to the left of two short cracks, ascend the crack -- 5.9, then step right, up and back left -- 5.10a on face holds. Do a few more moves up a thin edge/crack -- R and step left into an easy crack. In order to get off in one more pitch, stretch the rope out up this crack and belay high.

P2: Ascend the easy crack and where it ends, do an easy traverse right into another easy crack. Follow the second crack to a ramp with a pine tree, then traverse up and right over easy ground to the east ridge descent slabs.

Protection 

Tiny/small stoppers and small TCUs. Some larger cams & stoppers will be handy for the belay anchor and easy second pitch.