This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Luke Clarke just below the point where the climb b...
Description
This route is the first 20-25 feet of the Direct Dead Boy, but instead, you make a thin rising traverse you the right until you hit the small ledge. The climbing on the traverse is very thin and takes a little bit of balance as well. TR or go up the 5.10a crack to another anchor.
Protection
Not much gear but some small to med stoppers, med-hand sized cams, one or 2 very small RPs.
See Road Kill for a photo of this and nearby routes.
By Luke Clarke From: Golden Jul 18, 2004 rating: 5.10b
LIked this climb a lot. The dihedral gives us nice warm up in the hard 9 or easy 10 range and the pitch ends with a committing but protectable crux. Red micro Camalot fits nicely just before the crack closes off. but RPs would work nicely too. Continuing with the next two pitches of Living Dead seems a good choice. Weather went bad on us after two pitches but we got down in two raps from bolts with a single rope so it was a good choice on an iffy weather day.
The Book
RSS Feed
