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Tony Bubb starts off following his 'Chain Of Comma...
Description
Chain of Command is a nice face climb and a natural way to continue past Bonzo.
P1: Climb Bonzo. Apparently the traditional way to do Chain of Command is to break left around the arete about 30 feet below the top of Bonzo, but it seems more natural to climb the dihedral all the way to the first set of anchors.
P2: Climb up and slightly left up ever-steepening rock. Most of the climb is bolt protected face climbing on somewhat fragile flakes. Clip a long runner to the last bolt and traverse right and then up to an intermediate anchor consisting of two star drive bolts (crux #1). Continue up and right above this anchor for another 20 feet to a second anchor. This last section protects with some small gear (no bolts despite what various topos may show) and contains the true crux of the route - a one or two move section right off a good stance.
We rapped to the anchor on top of Bonzo with a 70m rope and 5-10 feet of rope to spare. A 60m would be tight if it reached at all. One more rap to the ground.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Aug 3, 2003 rating: 5.11a
Cool route, a little ennervating due to some questionable rock. The first 'pitch' with 6 bolts had a 5.10 crux move around the 3rd or 4th bolt. The step across did not feel like the crux to me- you can make the mover quickly and then go up to jugs to the anchor. From there clip both bolts and head up. The 'second pitch' crux is right above the bolts and needs no gear for saftey. Mentally you might want it, but not practically. After a move or two it was easy enough to just go to the anchor. The climb overall is a two-crux wonder that is fun and sustained at the 5.10- level.
Pretty good. A little spicy not due to biug falls potential, but due to the "wonder which hold might give" potential.
Easy for 11a? Maybe just my style. I powered through the crux but it did not feel technically difficult. People with less reach or shoulders might find it about right at the grade.
The top anchor should be replaced. It is not very good and one of the bottons is sticking out, but felt secure. The death triangle up there is taking it's toll. There's not good gear backup, so it's not like you can just leave gear if you get there and one is too bad to trust.
Sundance Buttress
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