This is an excellent two pitch line that ends at the same belay as Pressure Drop.
P1. Start in a rightward traversing finger seam to the right of Pressure Drop and left of the Crescent Arch. The first 20' of traversing are the crux, 11a ,with thin feet and difficult gear placements. Continue with gradually improving feet and construct a gear belay where the crack turns vertical, 50'.
P2. Pitch two fires up the thin crack to the bolted belay. Again, the start is the hardest, followed by great finger locks with solid gear the whole way 11a.
Rappel 80' from chains. One of the bolts could use a large washer to better hold the chain.
The first pitch is really not that difficult, it just makes you think. For a crack fiend, it is a little less secure considering you are underclinging the pitch. The moves off the belay on the second pitch are hard because you are trying to get away from the all the slings and RPs. The rest is ultra classic.
This climb is easier to do as a single pitch. The rope drag sucks but less so than a stupid hanging belay 20' off the ground. 2 ropes makes it pleasant. Mal
The anchor bolts on this Lumpy classic were replaced in the fall of '06 with ASCA hardware. Ditto Malcolm's comment that this is best done as a single pitch route which I have done numerous times with one rope and no rope drag issues by using longer runners (24") at the end of the traverse and the beginning of the upper crack.
Much, much more enjoyable and easier done as 1 pitch, rope drag is not really a problem if you use long slings at the end of the traverse and run it out a bit. Brilliant climbing! Felt easier to me than Pressure Drop.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Jun 13, 2009 rating: 5.11a
Good face climbing, edging shoes would be much better then crack shoes on this pitch. I had to do a lot of mini liebacks on P2 instead of climbing it straight on as some of the locks aren't so great. Cool climb.
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