Heaven Can Wait 

I didn't find this route to be "clean". The left face that you smear was quite flaky. It is an okay warm-up for the area, since it is the easiest pitch under 5.11 that is not "X" rated.

Greg Miller and I did this climb to the top. Gillett says P1 and P2 FA are unknown. P3 10b past the roof was added in 1984 by Mike Caldwell and Barlow.

P1 is gnarly, unpleasant and felt pretty hard. P2 is easy but runout. Save a #2 Camalot for the middle of P2 and another #2 and/or #1 for the belay below the roof. I had neither and belayed from 2 sideways nuts in the roof. We belayed at the top of the P2 flakes rather than at the left end of the subsequent traverse ledge, so that a leader fall reaching the first bolt on P3 would not be directly onto the belay. The disadvantage to belaying where we did was that once clipped into the first bold the rope would slide to the right across the lip of the roof if the leader fell above that.

P3 is pretty friable, and is spicy getting to the first bolt with the gear below the roof. The moves to the first bolt are about 10a. Once you're clipped it's still spicy, because the bolts are quarter inchers (but the hangar looked good!), presumably from 1984. The moves past the first bolt are the 10b crux and get a touch easier as you get to the second bolt. Some easier moves, maybe 5.8 or 9, lead to a horizontal and trad gear. Greg ran it out for the full 200' far right to a walkoff ledge. Descend right via an easy flake (we belayed), more hiking, and then a squeeze down a chimney (can belay the first person).

The rock was pretty grainy on p.1.
Expect slightly crumbly tiny crimpers and feet on p.2. Though the bolts are quarter inchers, they surely offer a sigh of relief. I thought the hardest moves were to the first bolt, but maybe that's just because they were scary. For the last half of p2, I finished on the crack/flake of cleft palate, traversing a slab, going as far right as possible to a ledge with a pine tree (walk off ledge).