Wigglin' Fingies 

FA:  Eli Helmuth, Chris Weidner New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 273 page views Submitted By: Chris Weidner on May 30, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Chris Weidner on a redpoint attempt of Wigglin' Fi...

Description 

Wigglin' Fingies climbs the attractive east face of Bookmark Pinnacle via a 50-foot arching flake/crack leading to a thin, clean slab. Carefully traverse left from the base of the "Cave Route" (in the descent chimney) to the steep flake/crack on the east face. Small nuts and a small cam or two protect the awkward layback start of the route. Where the crack fades out clip a bolt, then continue up the powerful underclings with good gear, including a small fixed nut. Now, tiptoe up the delicate (ie: desperate!) slab passing four bolts to the two-bolt anchor on top of the face. One may want to save the #00 TCU as a final piece before the anchor. Enjoy!

Protection 

Small to medium nuts, 1ea. cams #00 TCU to #.75 Camalot. There is one fixed nut plus 5 bolts en route to a two-bolt anchor at 80 feet. The belayer may want an anchor at the precarious stance beneath the route, which requires larger cams; #2 and #3 Camalots.

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Lynn just before flashing the crux on the 2nd onsi...