Crack of No Return 

FA:  George Hurley and Dave Rearick. 1975 Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 157 page views Submitted By: paco on Apr 1, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 3-July 31: Twin Owls Bat Flake Batman Pinnacle Batman Rock Lightning Rock Checkerboard Rock Thunder Buttress The Parish For more information, go to the NPS website: http://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Crack of No Return is located on the Bookmark Pinnacle left of Son of a Pitch.

Start just left of Son of a Pitch and make a bouldery traverse left on great rock to reach the base of the Crack of No Return. I was lucky enough to do this with a nice 2ft deep snow drift under the crux. Otherwise, a crash pad may be nice? After climbing a little ways into the actual crack, the climbing eases to steep 5.8 hands and a little wide stuff.

There is now also a direct start to this climb which eliminates the traverse and goes at 5.12ish?.

Protection 

The crux of this route is a unprotected traverse six feet off the ground. Those with weak ankles may want to bring a crash pad and/or a good spotter for the crux. Bring some small cams and some pro up to 4" for the crack above.