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First pitch of 10a, Perelandra.
Description
Perelandra resides in the same alcove as super-classics Fat City, Howling at the Wind, Corner Pump Station, etc.Start as for Howling,but climb the pretty thin finger crack out left(10a), to a stance below a flake.Layback the flake to a stance up under a roof/corner,next to some slings.Get some good stuff in and turn the corner(crux) right and up into the Howling corner with some spooky,good moves.
By Alan Searcy From: Pine, Colorado May 20, 2003 rating: 5.11a PG13
Particularly stellar route! Lower finger crack is tricky to get good gear, but gear can be had. Lots of small nuts, RPs and Aliens are the ticket for sewing this up. Thoughtful 10a that eases up as you get about 75 feet off the deck. Cheesy sling anchor loops live on top of a large flake (throw on your own and back up this UV graveyard) just prior to the 11a roof busting traverse. For me the roof is very committing and so are the spicy moves up into the 10b dihedral!. As usual the Rossiter book for this climb and the Lumpy Area is on the money, I love his topos, nobody seems to come close to that level of accuracy and detail.
This is a truely great route, but the second pitch has seen a few falls that have resulted in injuries.
I think the first pitch is a wonderful 5.10. If you want to skip the upper pitches you can traverse left and gain the first belay on Fat City and rap off. This little traverse can be a little exciting and it is always a relief to get your hands into the Fat City Crack!
I agree with Stephan that P1 is great. Continuous insecure moves with the occasional good jam or foothold to relax on. Lots of good gear with small cams, nuts, and a couple of micro nuts. There appears to be no fixed anchor at the top of P1, so you will want to (you may not really want to) traverse left to the Fat City bolts. This traverse is very intimidating for leader and second, although leading or following you can have a diagonal toprope. The traverse felt like the crux. Start with a reasonable foothold, switch feet and step down a bit onto an unreasonable and barely visible foothold. Switch feet and step down onto very steep friction feet with fingernail crimpers for false security. Eventually grab the non-crack and pull into it.
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