This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
A great approach pitch to Bookmark's Library Ledge, even if BACKFLIP or BELLYFLOP are not taken. The 1st 20 ft. will school ya in Lumpy flared cracks.... Hike up 50 ft. left from the base of BACKFLIP to a flat, sandy spot below a [straight] up groove, that is thin at first then widens. Those crystals at the start are might small for 5.9...but after a few foot shifts and opposition moves, the crack opens to easier jamming. Some nice 5.7 or 8 leads to a small ledge 50ft. below Library Ledge. One can traverse right to the anchors on BELLYFLOP and rap 75 ft. or continue to the summit.
Protection
Standard Lumpy Ridge rack, with allowances for more gear if summiting.
No way this is 5.9. Nicer as a 5.8 A1, aiding off of 2 Aliens to start.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado May 22, 2006 rating: 5.9+
This can be 5.9+, but you have to wait for the lichen on the start to completely dry off. It seems to retain water longer than most things around there.
Always be wary of routes rated 9+ that were put up back in the day. After a few false starts, I figured out which crimps and crystals to use (along with a crappy hand jam with a crystal poking the back of my hand), and it didn't feel so bad. There's no gear for the hard moves, but you're not too high by the time you place your first piece.
The Bookmark
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