This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Near the top of second pitch, Pin Route.
Description
The Pin Route start at the dirty chimney on the north side of Twin Owls. You will see a blocky ramp that traverses to the right. Climb the chimney to the ramp and start the traverse. Keep going [past a pin] until you run [to a 2 pin belay]. You can go [straight] up from here or do a variation [Sky Route] which keeps traversing right [past a pin] until you must go [straight] up [a right facing dihedral] for [1 to] 2 more pitches. Either way, the climbing is VERY exposed and is an unbelievable solo and a superb trad route for the adventurous beginner. Descend via [through a tight slot to the Bowels of the Owls].
Addendum: There is a somewhat popular variation of P2 called Sky Route, 5.3, PG-13. From the P1 belay, you continue up the right-angling ramp about 20 ft to where you can move left around a flake. There is an optional belay. You can continue on fun, exposed, longer-reach flakes & scoops, pulling to the top. 140 ft if skipping the optional belay.
Protection
Stoppers and a set of cams to probably 4" if wanting to lead it safely through the chimney.
This is a nice climb for its grade. It's possible to access the traverse ledge more directly, avoiding the dirty chimney. The variation which continues the traverse - Sky Route- is easier but more exposed as it continues out to the west edge and gives a more open view of the valley below.
Did this route today and was a nice way to reach the actual summit of the Owls after doing the Organ Pipes. (Easily reached by traversing left for about 150 yards along the Roosting Ramp). A good route, but even though some guide books call it a good beginner route, not sure I would bring too green a novice up here. There are some exposed traverses on both pitches which are hard to protect.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 23, 2005
This route collects snow on cooler, snowier days where more S-facing routes might not. Probably NW facing.
Addendum: Should we have a separate entry for the Sky Route? It has a distinct 2nd pitch.
Sky Top (5.8) is a nice link up to Pin or Sky Way. In the overview picture it's the right-leaning dihedral below the Pin/Way intersection. It's fun 5.8 that traverses up and left into the dihedral and then pulls up to meet with Pin. This variation is seldom done. (Some "guide" up there asked me, "what the hell are you on?"). I climbed it a few years back and it was fairly dirty, but it wasn't a factor for the enjoyment or climbability.
Twin Owls
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