This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Howard soloing the first pitch.
Description
Gina's Surprise is route that is farthest to the right on the Pear. The line is the obvious grey dike that shoots up for approx. 150-160 feet. This line is not advisable to climb with gear for a fall on the first pitch would be a disaster. There are a couple shallow horns that could be used. The second pitch is a short lie back crack that goes up for about 70-80'. Descent right from there when crack runs out.
This can be climbed to the top of the formation in 5 pitches.
Protection
Well, first pitch, none. Second pitch, larger stoppers and med cams.
Kid Friendliness
It has enough features and short-enough traverses to allow a shorter (7-8 year old) to ascend without excessive difficulty.
Fired this on [Saturday] and the description's [right] about no gear on pitch one but that's climbin', Especially at [Lumpy]. sure, [it's] not very hard but don't fall! Otherwise, good route, but a spicy little vixen. Definitely deserves 2 stars.
I've climbed this route before, and it was pretty close to my limit. I'm new to climbing, and am very recreational with it. For me, it was horrifying and unsafe. I think this pitch should be bolted so it's accessible to all. As is, it's unjustifiable. Just my 2 cents worth. Brian Hopkins (sorry for the AC, but I'm not registered on the site)
I agree, Maybe a bolt would not be so bad to protect the ground fall. This is a very moderate climb with serious consequences. I believe it would be a service to the community and climbing population in general. There are a bit of novices getting in over there head, besides how many more people could access this hidden gem if it were made more accesible to all.
(In case the last 2 posts were not trolls) ... Brian and Carl- what makes you guys think, that just because you are new to climbing and want safe routes to lead, that all easy routes should be turned into sport clip-ups? A 5.5 X route is NOT a beginner route. Lumpy is a traditional area and, over the years, new climbers learning at trad areas have typically followed a more experienced leader, and TR'd many, many pitches before they step on the sharp end. So go to the gym, follow many moderate trad pitches, boulder, go TR on short cliffs, practice mock leading, and then come back to this route when you are ready.
Don't dumb down traditional climbing for the rest of the community. If you want safe easy routes to lead, there are many moderate sport pitches in the region.
I'm planning on bolting this bad boy as soon as the weather looks good. It will be nicer for people transitioning from the gym to leading outdoors. It is much easier to lead without carrying all the trad gear.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Aug 10, 2005
FWIW, this 1st pitch has some gear, albeit, not great. I watched 2 ladies put in 4-5 pieces in the 1st 100ft to the tree. Red Alien, big RP (before the dike), blue? Alien (L of the dike), yellow Alien.... The first time up, Allen led P1 with 1 piece of gear climbing the R side of the dike (ladies are smarter than us, boys).
Also, this is a kid friendly route, if someone in your party is up to the lead. My 7 & 9 year olds scampered up this. P3 seemed to be the crux with a R-angling crack. P1 100ft, P2 190ft to a ledge (3.5 & 4F for the belay), P3 190ft to a big tree with a ledge, P4 190 ft to a cozy recess, P5 100ft to the top. Exciting lower for the kids.
The Pear
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