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Ray, above the crux, with the mighty Crescent Arch...
Description
Pressure Drop is located in the center of the Crescent Wall. The initial 40 feet or so are shared with the route Kool Aid. Start on a block/flake leaning against the wall, then climb the splitter finger crack and pass a crux at 5.10d. When you reach the fixed pin climb the crack/seam the angles up and right. You will pass another crux at 5.10d and at least 1 more maybe in the 5.10a range. Be warned that the gear gets THIN! In a couple of spots it looks like you won't be getting anymore gear, keep climbing there is gear! You will want to be good with RPs. There is no move harder than 5.10d, but the route is given 5.11a due to its sustained nature. The seam ends at a large flake/small ledge that is pasted to the wall, either walk on top of it or drop down and hand traverse to the anchor on the right side (bolts). Rappel off these bolts to descend. You will rap down the route Finger Lick'n Good. Enjoy!
Protection
You will need a set to set and a half of nuts.1 set of RPs- include the little ones. Cams to a .75 Camalot- and you probably won't use anything bigger than an orange TCU. There is one fixed pin (LA).
By Brian Milhaupt From: Golden, CO Jun 15, 2003 rating: 5.11a
The fixed pin is no longer there. It is possible to lower from the anchor and belay from the ground with a 60m cord. None of the moves were too hard, but setting and moving above the RPs is a little heady.
A brilliant pitch off the beaten track. The upper traversy section requires deft footwork and confidence in leaving suspect gear a bit behind.
By Bruce Morris From: Belmont, CA Oct 7, 2004 rating: 5.11a
I always thought that Dan Hare et al had done the FA of "Finger Lickin'", but that it was myself and the late Eric Weinstein who did the first FA of "Pressure Drop" on Crescent Wall. In any case, it certainly was Eric who named it after the Jimmy Cliff tune (one of his favorites). Likewise, I know it was Eric who placed the pin (the one that fell out) since I was belaying him at the time (Jan./Feb. 1977). Victor Creazzi from the Gunks had tried the route back in 1973-74 and there were some other earlier attempts, too. Eric and I were the ones who aided up the first crux and cleaned all the dirt out of the crack, so I suspect there wasn't an earlier FA than ours.
By Bruce Morris From: Belmont, CA Oct 26, 2004 rating: 5.11a
In any case, Eric W. and I probably did the first ascent of both pitches as one. I think what people didn't like was that it was described in Climbing magazine as the "hardest crack climb in Colorado"! Certainly not the case, even in 1977! Nice route though. I remember now that Eric Doub tried it in 1975, too.
Brilliant. I and my partner both shed a little blood somewhere above the small roof (at ~30 feet?)... probably due to our famously sloppy technique, but we both wished we'd taped.
Bruce...an interesting post! When I added this route I had just climbed the route, and not knowing the history myself had referenced a guidebook for the reported FA. My apologies!!
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 28, 2007 rating: 5.11a
Great climbing with awesome views. I had previously been on this route back in JULY of 2001! I almost melted that day from the heat. Today was also very hot up there. I would recommend doing this route on a sunny day in Feb. Very continuous at the grade with tricky gear stances. Good footwork a must!
I followed Greg up this last Tuesday. Greg was solid, but was struggling a bit getting in the last nut before the final hard move. The crack crux was much harder than the traverse for me--I couldn't do it, and left a lot of skin behind. I hung on the traverse before the last move to rest and avoid a potential swinging fall. The gear on the traverse is good, except the final nut which is small and single and placed from a difficult stance. Just before that Greg had 3 good but small nuts. They were all in a horizontal and over an edge, but something would have held.
I'm wondering what kind of gear was used on the FA? No pins? It looks like pins would have worked. Did you (whoever) have brass nuts back then or only the flimsier #1 and #2 stoppers?