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Batman Rock
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Spaziergang 

5.8

   

FA: George Hurley & Charlie Fowler, '71
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 220 feet
Views: 186 page views

Submitted By: George Bell on Sep 21, 2002


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.

Scott nearing the first belay, with the tree behin...


Description 

German for "walkway". This is a fairly obvious crack on the east face containing a small pine tree about 80' up. Right of this crack is a large right facing corner (Carpenter's Corner). The first pitch also starts about 30' right of Bat Crack.

P1 (100'): The crack with the tree does not reach the ground. Move right under an overhang to find a short, steep crack. Crank up this (5.7) and move up and left to reach the base of the crack with the tree. Follow this fun crack (5.6) past the tree, then traverse right to a small belay ledge about 30' beyond the tree.

One can also start below the crack, step over the overhang and up a steep face, but this is much more dangerous for the leader as there is no protection at all for the first 20' and it is probably at least 5.8 (the party behind us opted for this start). It is also possible to start even farther left, as for Bat Crack: Climb up a knobby face, and about 20' up traverse straight right on a line of knobs to the base of the crack with the tree (no pro but only about 5.5).

A large number of slings and rappel rings indicate that rappelling off or toproping the first pitch from the tree is popular. This tree is not large and shows some wear from all of this.

P2 (120'): Move up, then traverse right into a dihedral at the left edge of a large roof band. Climb straight up this over the roof, then continue up and somewhat right to the top of the rock (5.8). The rock on this pitch is a bit grainy, and it may be easier if you go farther right than we did. Near the end of the pitch we did a scary step right into an undercling.


Protection 

Standard rack to 2.5"



Add Photo Photos of Spaziergang
Scott after cranking over the roof, about to head left back into the crack.

Scott after cranking over the roof, about to head ...

An unknown climber on the first pitch, with the line of the rope following the alternate, runout start.

An unknown climber on the first pitch, with the li...

1st crux of P2. Next crux, head for the manta ray head-like or manatee-tail-like chickenhead. Black Alien useful just left of this jug. The chickenhead crux sequence is better than heading left, Allen.

1st crux of P2. Next crux, head for the manta ray...

Joseffa Meir on Spaziergang (5.8) on Batman Rock at Lump Ridge. She is doing the route as a single pitch from the ground. Image by T. Bubb, 8/06

BETA PHOTO: Joseffa Meir on Spaziergang (5.8) on Batman Rock a...


Add Comment Comments on Spaziergang
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By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2006
rating: 5.8+ PG13

Can be done as a single pitch with a 70M rope- take a lot of slings with a standard rack. The upper headwall crux will be both difficult and poorly protected for leaders below 5'8" or so. My 5'5" partner had to run it out on less than ideal holds. Doing it her way, we believed it was closer to 5.10 than 5.8.