Cackle Crack 5.8
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Paul Giglio making it go with Erik Corkran and his...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is on Hen and Chicken Rock, the 100 foot high buttress (with a pointy summit) just below the SE corner of the East Owl. Take the approach trail which branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake Trail, and lead right to the rock. Cackle Crack is the excellent hand crack in the large, left-facing corner on the rock's right side. Climb it to where it becomes a finger crack and belay on a ledge below the summit block; go north and hike down east to descend.
Protection Bring gear to a #3 Camalot.
Climbing the first part of Cackle.
| Cool first belay.
| Another view of the first belay. August 8, 2002.
| Reeves leading down low on Cackle Crack.
| Layin' back on Cackle Crack.
| Cackle Crackle.
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By Kurt Johnson From: Estes Park, CO Dec 18, 2001
| This is an excellent first 5.8 trad lead. Not too long, bomber gear, good rests, and very aesthetic. When I did it, I ended up rapping off a two-bolt anchor to the left and at the same height as the top of the Cackle Crack dihedral - a short but sketchy traverse that could send you swinging back into the dihedral, but an alternative way of rapping off. |
By Jon Slinger Apr 23, 2002
| The Hen and the Chickens, ie cackle crack, yosemite crack(there are more) are not included in the raptor closure. This explained on the NPS closure notice at the twin owls trailhead. |
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 1, 2002
| Yeah, it is only 1 pitch, but I would give it 3 stars. One of the finest pitches of 5.8 hand jamming I have ever seen anywhere. Rapping from the bolted anchor is not recommended because you miss another 30 feet of great climbing! |
By Brian Faulkner From: Fort Collins Oct 11, 2002
| I agree that this climb is an excellent choice for a first 5.8. It only has one difficult section about 15 feet up, and the rest is easier. You only need a few larger pieces down low, and the rest of the climb takes smaller gear. When you reach the top create a belay so you can look out at longs and the rest of the Estes Valley. Its great! Its also quit a bit shorter approach than many of the climbs on lumpy so you can get there after dinner and climb till the sun goes down without trobule. |
By Chris Fisher Oct 19, 2002
| What a great 5.8. I think this climb, although short, deserves a three star rating. I find myself coming back to this one. Nice jamming with the rest spots spaced perfectly. |
By David Warriner May 4, 2003
| Did this route last year, thought it was great. The only problem with it is it didn't go on long enough. Great trad 5.8 lead. Belay is too cool. |
By Jeremy Franz From: Berthoud, CO Jul 10, 2003
| I'd bring a couple of larger pieces for this one. I left the #3.5 and #4 Camalots in the car and was longing for them on lead. I found myself scooting the #3 up with me as I went so it all worked out. If you belay at the pinnacle at the top of crack, it turns into a two pitch route. A good option for practicing multipitch climbing. We rapped off a sling around the pinnacle. The traverse to the bolts looked pretty thin and dicey. |
By Brian Faulkner From: Fort Collins Sep 25, 2003
| I have seen a lot of people ending the pitch at the top of one of the blocks by the bolts. I think it seems kinda sketchy to move over to them. You can get about 20 feet more of good climbing if you keep climbing the crack that goes up and to the left and really top out, from which you can walk off of. That last part does not have good feet so its hard to stop and protect it, but the climbing is fun. |
By grega From: CO Jul 31, 2006
| Great route.. We also TR'd Hagakure from this route. IMO, it was not sketchy to stem over to the bolts. Just a stretch. |
By Merlin From: Grand Junction Apr 29, 2008
| Superb lead for those working into the 8s, it gobbles gear. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jul 6, 2008 rating: 5.8
| Fun climbing, and a good single pitch, but don't stop at the bolts! There is more fun to be had above. |
By - - - Jul 23, 2008
| If you've got it, bring your #4, especially if you're a newer leader. |
By Angela Mabe From: Flagstaff,AZ Apr 12, 2010
| I'm glad I had the #4. |
By Brian Scoggins Sep 12, 2010 rating: 5.8-
| While it is true that you could place a #4 on this route, you could just as easily place a second #3 a couple feet higher or lower. Also, crux location is determined more or less by hand size. If perfect hands is like a #2 or #2.5 Friend, the crux is the first 15 feet. If it's closer to a #3 or #3.5, the crux comes near the end of the dihedral. Also, the upper crack is very doable, with incredibly good feet if you know what a good crystal on granite looks like. They aren't jams, but these feet are crazy good. |
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