Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Book
Show routes:
Select route...
44, The 
Adventures of B-Dog, The 
Alien Algorithm 
Arapilumps 
Bart's Way 
Box, The 
Campground 
Cave Exit, The 
Cavity, The 
Cheap Date 
Consequences 
Corner Pump Station 
Dead Boy 
Dead Boy Direct 
Decisions 
Don Quixote 
El Camino Real 
Endless Crack 
Fascist Drill in the West 
Fat City Crack 
Femp 
Final Chapter, The 
Finger Crack 
George's Tree 
Happy Camper 
High Plains Drifter 
Howling at the Wind 
Hurley Direct 
Hurley Traverse 
Isis 
J-Crack 
King Tut 
KOAlien 
Living Dead 
Loose Ends 
M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] 
Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The 
Mission Impossible 
Moderate Slabs 
Monkey on a String 
NE arete 
New Music 
NW corner 
Osiris 
Outlander 
Pear Buttress 
Perelandra 
Pharoah's Child 
Pizza Face 
Pseudo Wallet Eater 
Ramses 
Renaissance Wall 
Right Exit 
Road Kill 
SE corner 
Shinbuster 
Sloper Slapper 
South Crack 
Sport Pages 
Stepped On 
Stretch Marks 
Thindependence 
Thinstone 
Toot 
Turn the Page 
Visual Aids 
Weekend Warrior 
Wolfie and the Scientist 

Fascist Drill in the West 

5.11b

   

FA: mike caldwell and randy ferris
Type: Trad, Sport
Views: 235 page views

Submitted By: justin dubois on May 20, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.

Description 

This great pitch is located on the far right side of the Book. Begin up a corner just right of Mission Impossible, and stem up a thin corner that meets a roof. Climb right to a slabby stance, clip a bolt at the lip of the roof, and pull straight over. Then more slabbin'(crux) up a line of bolts to the chains of Mission Impossible.


Protection 

Rack to two inches and some draws.



Add Comment Comments on Fascist Drill in the West
Show which comments
By Crusty
Jul 17, 2002

Although well enough protected for a hardman like Dubois, this excellent pitch is about ripe for some maintenance. The Bugaboo protecting the move below the roof is missing (as are the pins on Adventures of B-Dog just left of this route). Also the bolts, although 3/8", are in their late teenage years.

By Crusty
Jul 17, 2002

Also, bring a 60m rope or be ready for a little 5.0 down climbing.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 11, 2004

Onsighted this bitch today and there's no fixed pins on it. New hangars (maybe bolts? RPrp's below the roof. Anwyays, my point is that this climb deservies an R/X rating. If you fell getting to that fourth (I think it was fourth, maybe it was third--it's where ya start going straight up again, and ya hope your gonna get gear in the corner/non-crack, but it's bullshit and had me cursing my ass off at the bitch) bolt, and if the third bolt were to blow you'd be screwed with your pants on. R/X for sure, because I've always bean taught to never trust my life to just one piece and that's what your doing on this. But hey--don't fall, and it don't matter. Great climbing on this bitch though and I give it 2 stars though maybe it could be 3. It's no fall zone up there, I think it deserves R/X based on what I just told you.

By Eli Helmuth
Jun 30, 2005

This is a great route which is best started from the cracks to the bottom right of the route- versus the unprotected left. All of the bolts except the first have been replaced with ASCA hardware as of 5/04. There is no X to this route when started from the right - only some wild R on quality rock with solid bolts.

By Rich Servantes III
From: Toyota-rado
Jun 12, 2006

I TR'd this after doing Mission Impossible. While I was climbing through the runout bolted section (3-4) which was why I didn't want to lead this, I noticed that there USED to actually be a bolt there.
I could see the round patch of epoxy where a bolt hole had been filled. Had this been pulled for a reason?? Was it the FA's doing?
I doubt that this route was put up as is but, maybe some one can replace that bolt.