This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
1st pitch - name for route is obvious? Photo cred...
Description
Cool rock. The name is perfect. This starts on the right side/SE face of Batman Rock. Hike up the trail to Batman Rock, traverse right along its base. 25-40 min walk.
[The start is left of a shrub juniper on the big ledge across the bottom of the SE face. It is just right of the big, triangular flake in the center of the photo with the acute R & up pointing triangular shadow. Just right of the start is a ledge with at least 4 trees. When you find yourself near the start, there is a series of holds on the right side of the wall here that looks 5.7ish. The rest looks harder. The angle of the wall diminishes markedly after 20-25 feet. The start is shared with Hand Over Hand & Clowntime is Over.]
Pitch 1: Go up a steeper face perhaps 20 feet (easy 5.7) on good knobs, a #3F is useful. You can sling a horn (weight useful). When you reach the slab, traverse left. Find wonderful knobs here that make this traverse easy but memorable. Think about your second and protect this when you can! There are couple places to belay in this sea of knobs. Pitch 2: continue this traverse to a corner and belay (slightly awkward). #3, #31/2 F, hexes are useful for the belay. Pitch 3 (shared with Station to Station): jam up a bulge (crux) in the corner and move right to easier terrain.
In old guides this is rated 5.7. Due to the risk for the second and falling leaders on the traverse, I gave is an S or R, although traditionally, it has not carried such a warning.
A great moderate link-up with Batman and Robin and/or Osirius for bonus mileage.
Bird nesting closure may affect accessibility. Check first.
Another good landmark for the start of this route is the route 'Hand Over Hand' -- a fairly obvious steep 5.7 crack that doesn't reach the ground. The start of both routes is the same and is the featured knobby face almost directly below the Hand Over Hand crack.
Batman Rock
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