Picadilly Circus 

FA:  Billy Wesbay and Michael Covington, 1975 Type:  Trad Views: 35 page views Submitted By: paco on Mar 2, 2002 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

while Pically Circus may not the best route around over all, it does contain one of the best roof cracks on lumpy!

easily seen from the black canyon trail or the summit of the Pear is a nice looking crack breaking the lower left slab leading to the headwall of the citadel. climb this eventually making a traverse left to the wide dihedral. head up the not-so beautiful crack and go left to a nice belay ledge below the roof with the hand crack running through it. jam and undercling the sharp, evil underside of the roof(#4 camalot) and crank the clean, body length hand crack through the center of the roof. so goood! belay above the roof and then head up and left to the top.

Protection 

average lumpy rack up to a #4 camalot.