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The white dike is visible at the top left of the p...
Description
Fun climb. A study in contrasts, with both pitches equally demanding and memorable. Pitch one is a well protected burly roof struggle, while pitch two is a delicate and kinda scary slab. The route starts by a left-facing groove under the right end of a roof a ways right of Slippage. Wallow up the ugly groove, then monkey out left across The obvious flake. This is a juggy dream, all kinds of limbs can be used to help support body weight. Double ropes will allow for no-drag pro while hauling yourself (crux) into the obvious belay niche above. The second pitch is utterly different! Head carefully up the whitish dike above and slightly right. Though badly protected, this 5.9 climbing is very cool, connecting features on the dike (footholds, sidepulls, etc.) rather than plain old gibbering up a blank slab. As the runout gets worse, the angle eases (as does the rating), so just keep going up to a big belay ledge.
Protection
Hand/fist size cams and maybe slings for the flake. Pitch two is pretty runout. Double ropes help with effective protection on the traverse on pitch one.
There are some pretty blatant cases in the pantheon of Front Range granite sandbags, but this one may take the cake. Old-school 10+ for sure. Double rope technique isn't crucial, but use of long slings is. Definitely have a couple slings ready to drape over the flakes near the crux. The second pitch looks amazing... I would have liked to have made it that far.
The Pear
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