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BETA PHOTO: The Owls West Face Routes
Description
Located just down and to the right of Anaconda- the inital roof and crux of Rattler is quite rotten. However, the route as a whole is so stellar that I had to give it three stars. Since [you're] right off the ground the crux is a bit dangerous whether trying it clean or with stacked pins. Yikes! After the crux work your way up to the anchor linking steep thin cracks. And the 2nd pitch just before the anchor you end up aiding this amazing steep arete with nothing but air around you. Check this out!
Note: possible ground fall from rotten crux
Protection
5.8 C3 bring a standard clean aid rack with two of each cam from 00 TCUs to #3 Camalots, double set of stoppers, some RPs, slider nuts, tri cams and extra TCUs. The 1st belay has a nice new bolt and some other stuff. the next and last anchor is a strange fix of nuts and tricams that tend to come loose quite easily. Use your #2 and 3 Camalots here instead!
Has this really been done clean? I rope soloed it years ago and thought pins were the only way to go in the roof. What clean gear did you use? Bravo, by the way. -SL
I swear I'm telling the truth! A yellow TCU was the only thing I could get to stick in the first pin scar in the roof. Only two cams were touching the rock, and as soon as I reached out and placed the next TCU, the yellow blew out. Just about messed my britches. P.S.- I've only seen em in the mags, but those new "2 cams" from Splitter Gear might work here also??
This climb (and every other aid climb on the Owls) goes clean. The rotten rock will not take much nailing; once one maniac does it sans hammer, EVERYONE should. Take a lot of small cams and nuts... and a book for the belays...and maybe a crash pad....
Twin Owls
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