Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Sundance Buttress
Show routes:
Select route...
Adrenaline 
Banana Peels 
Betwixt'em 
Bonzo 
Bushes 
Cajun Capers 
Chain of Command 
Covert Action 
Curve Grande 
English Opening 
Eumenides 
Firebird 
Grapevine 
Great Roof Bypass 
Guillotine, The 
Hemp Necktie 
Hurley-Neri 
Jet Stream 
Kor's Flake 
Mainliner 
Mr President 
Nose / Idiot Wind Variation, The 
Precipitation 
Progression 
Redman 
Sidetrack 
Slim Pickens 
Turnkorner 
Under the Big Top 
Whiteman 

Whiteman 

5.11c

   

FA: Lynn Hill/John Long (FFA)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 498 page views

Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Jan 1, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.

Description 

On the buttress between Guillotine and Mainliner are several flake/crack lines that are climbable. Whiteman takes the right-most of these. Look up; you're heading for the base of a beautiful, changing corners pitch.

P1 5.11c - Climb flakes and cracks, protecting with small wires and stoppers. Clip two bolts for the traverse to the belay in the bottom of the crack.

P2 5.11 - Climb the changing corners to thed top. Beautiful, thin stemming and jamming. Bachar backed off this pitch saying it needed pins to protect, leaving it to girl to do the FFA. It protects well with small cams.


Protection 

Cams to thin hand size. Lots of small wires/RPs.



Add Comment Comments on Whiteman
Show which comments
By Steve Levin
Oct 8, 2001

Thanks for adding this gem, Malcolm. Does anyone know if the bolts protecting the scratch-fest traverse have been replaced?

By jason seaver
Sep 18, 2002

As of last summer, the bolts on the traverse were still quarter-inchers, but I don't believe it makes it unsafe. You can get a bomber piece at the top of the flake that you are leaving on the right, which backs up the rusty bolts. The anchor at the top of that pitch HAS been updated though, and the dihedral above provides excellent climbing. I highly recommend this route.

By paco
Mar 25, 2003

The two old bolts on the traverse have been replaced with new ones.

By david goldstein
Sep 12, 2004
rating: 5.11c

I'd give each pitch two Lumpy stars. Don't skip the 2nd pitch which is steeper, better protected and arguably more enjoyable than the first. There is a rap station at the end of P2, but it is not too inspiring -- old, crusty slings girth hitched around wires etc; we partially fortified it but a couple of leaver biners and another piece w/ decent webbing would really help. 165' from the 2nd anchor to the base.

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 27, 2005

I think this is deserving of 4 stars. Although only 2 pitches, probably my favorite route on Sundance.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: The Idyllwild City Dump.
Mar 13, 2008

That girl that you refer to is a five time World Champion. That girl was the first person to free The Nose. Went back a year later and freed every pitch herself in a day. As far as I know, it hasn't been repeated to this day (all pitches done free by one person in a day). That girl has been at the top of the climbing world for the better part of three decades. That girl still holds a bunch of power lifting records in her weight class. That girl only weighs about 100 pounds and can bench press 230. Can you bench two and a half times your weight? I met Lynn once in Smith Rocks. I was with a bunch of hardcore valley climbers embarrassing ourselves on Rude Boys. It's like 5.13c or something. Lynn roped up and flashed it. As John Long put it, if you went climbing with Lynn Hill, the only thing you would be good for is to hold her rope. :)