This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
BETA PHOTO
Description
A hard line to the left of Fat City. None of the guide books have reported the complete route, so here it is. All the bolts were drilled on lead from stances. P1 - Start in the incipient groove 20' left of the start of Fat City and face climb the groove until you can step left and clip the first bolt. This section is hairy and can be protected if you're good with Tri-cams and RP's. Climb up the bolt line to the 2-bolt belay. P2 - Another incipient groove takes you up to the top of the "44" crack. Cross it to the roof, step down and left until you can haul over the roof on good holds. Face climb up (hard) to a left angling groove, or dike, and head left to belay in the first crack system you come to. P3 - Step right and face climb up a buttress to it's top. It's easier than it looks; similar, and close to, High Plains Drifter. Head up toward the Wilie's Way dihedral and set up a bely when your rope gets tight. P4 - Climb Willie's Way (10+)and keep going and belay at the base of the steep headwall. P5 - CLimb the headwall, climbing through the two square roofs on their right sides. Mantle onto the summit.
Protection
Requires draws for the bolts and a trad rack trending to the thin stuff.
the old anchors and one protection bolt have been replaced on pitch 1. if youre not up for leading this serious first pitch you can easily reach the anchors for a great TR via the anchors on p.1 of fat city. only one of the two bolts for lead have been replaced (the 2nd one).
Recently led the 1st pitch. Good natural pro up to a horizontal leaning seam with a fixed pin, very spicy from here to the first bolt but solid climbing with good edges. I believe someone has added a new last bolt, there are now a total of three to the anchors.
The Book
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