Did this route on Saturday. The 2nd pitch dihedral is one of the best .6 you will ever do. It gets run-out just as it starts to bulge outward and the crack fills with grass. This route could probably be done in two long pitches. This is a great route on the left book when all the other routes are taken. This one sees less traffic b/c of its run-out nature but I think it is the best route on the Left Book.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Oct 22, 2004
A few thoughts: This is a stiff, sustained climb at the 5.7 level, I wouldn't want to be a 5.7 leader on this. The very-stiff & minimally featured start can be protected by placing gear up the gully to the R before cluck-pointing (I did). The dihedral is amazing, takes small pro, & is longer than it looks. P2 is not going to feel reasonable to a 5.6 leader. Don't go 200ft on P1 unless you don't mind a marginal stance for a belay (red & yellow Alien + 5 & 6 Rocks). P2 is more comfortably belayed after a short traverse at the roof/overlap to a notch to the R. P3 is not as run out as described unless you don't hunt & peck. Clucking above the roof, I found placements for at least #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, large wire (in R pointing flake), yellow Alien, red Alien, orange Alien, #1.5 Camalot before the juggy finish. Maybe I didn't take the 'correct line' but it was fairly direct & 5.7. Interestingly, S. Kimball didn't give it an S in his guide but described an 'unprotected crystalline slab'. I would only give it an S for P1 if you don't cluck-point it & PG-13 for P3. 2.3 stars.
By James Beissel From: Boulder, CO Jul 18, 2009 rating: 5.7
First pitch is safe with double rope technique. Climb up the gully, place some pro and clip your right rope, climb down, get on the slab and gain the crack. Lead the rest of the pitch on your left rope.
If you want to make it spicy you can, but don't let that stop you from getting on this excellent route! (Oops, did I just let the cat out of the bag?)
The crack/didedral is excellent!!!
Above the dihedral I don't know where this route is supposed to go to be R rated, but if you just keep going straight up the wide crack it is 5.7 or less and protectable all the way to the top.
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