Beelzebub 

Did this route on Saturday. The 2nd pitch dihedral is one of the best .6 you will ever do. It gets run-out just as it starts to bulge outward and the crack fills with grass. This route could probably be done in two long pitches. This is a great route on the left book when all the other routes are taken. This one sees less traffic b/c of its run-out nature but I think it is the best route on the Left Book.

A few thoughts: This is a stiff, sustained climb at the 5.7 level, I wouldn't want to be a 5.7 leader on this. The very-stiff & minimally featured start can be protected by placing gear up the gully to the R before cluck-pointing (I did). The dihedral is amazing, takes small pro, & is longer than it looks. P2 is not going to feel reasonable to a 5.6 leader. Don't go 200ft on P1 unless you don't mind a marginal stance for a belay (red & yellow Alien + 5 & 6 Rocks). P2 is more comfortably belayed after a short traverse at the roof/overlap to a notch to the R. P3 is not as run out as described unless you don't hunt & peck. Clucking above the roof, I found placements for at least #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, large wire (in R pointing flake), yellow Alien, red Alien, orange Alien, #1.5 Camalot before the juggy finish. Maybe I didn't take the 'correct line' but it was fairly direct & 5.7. Interestingly, S. Kimball didn't give it an S in his guide but described an 'unprotected crystalline slab'. I would only give it an S for P1 if you don't cluck-point it & PG-13 for P3. 2.3 stars.