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Climbing above "severely mangled fixed pin" on pit...
Description
Begin up around the corner to the left from the start of Melvin's Wheel at a prominent left angling crack.
P1 Climb the crack (and the face below it 5.7) for about 40 feet until it is possible to do a steep move or two up to the right (5.8) and around the corner onto the face. Work into and up a left facing corner and belay.
P2 Climb up to the ancient bolt, and then head up the slab a bit. I got a couple decent but not totally bomber TCUs in a flaring crack. Then, with your feet at the level of the TCUs, work right across the slab (5.9) and into an easy crack system. Follow this all the way up to the large ledge. Move the belay over to the bottom of the obvious steep chimney.
P3 Climb up past a severely mangled fixed pin and into the chimney. Squeeze past the bottom of the wide slot on the left to a stance, the step right across the chimney to a great finger crack. Stem and finger lock your way up to the roof, which is passed on the left side.Continue to the bolted rap anchor (around the corner to the left at the top).
P3 is a fantastic, steep, and intimidating lead. Solid for the grade, strenuous, and fun. Mix this with the Original Fantasy Ridge to bypass the dicey 5.9 on P2.
By Scott Conner From: Lyons, CO Jun 14, 2004 rating: 5.9-
Much has already been said about P2 on the Fantasy Ridge page; I'll only add that the cam placements in the crack above the bolt seemed solid. You can get blue, green AND yellow Aliens in the same crack. Yes, I plugged in all three.
P3 is a fantastic crack pitch. Steep and sustained with great pro. This pitch is pushing 5.9, IMO.
By Kevin Currigan From: Lakewood Jun 20, 2005 rating: 5.9
The ancient bolt has been replaced by a nice new one. I felt pretty good about the pro in the flaring crack above the bolt on P2. However, by the time I traversed right I was 10 feet above it-yikes! P3 for the second is a gas. Punching in gear on lead was pretty pumpy for my leader. Both of us felt P3 was .9. P2 was much easier. I really liked this route!
By Kevin Currigan From: Lakewood Jun 30, 2005 rating: 5.9
I climbed this route again and found if the chimney is climbed using chimneying (sp?) technique a couple of hands free rests can be had, and it was much less stressful than the 1st time climbing it as a slab/crack. The section of the climb mentioned is above the climber in the photo.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jul 16, 2006 rating: 5.9 PG13
Bit o' beta: You can protect P3 with #3 Camalot & smaller, double #1 & #2 are useful, unless you brought hexes. Feet to the big, sloping ledge before you move to the R crack. It's not nearly as hard as it looks. Definitely fun & worth the effort.
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