Bombay Chimney 

FA:  Filip Sokol and Del Monte, 1968 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  5 pitches Views: 131 page views Submitted By: Erik Corkran on May 30, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This is the farthest left of the major chimneys on the Bookend, very noticeable from the ground. The crux is sustained though most of the route is much easier. A fun route for those who enjoy chimneys (hopefully there are still a few of us out there).

1. Climb crack/dihedral system (mostly 5.4-5.6) about 80 ft to the base of the main chimney. Climb about 20ft up the chimney / crack to a nice stance (5.8?).

2. Climb the deep flare for about 120ft. This sustained and fun chimney pitch protects well with normal gear on the inside. 5.8, 120ft.

3. Continue up much easier chimney system with many ramps and features inside to another good stance.

4. "Walk" through to where you can join the main wall to the summit, or pick a variety of other mostly-easier but fun options. Climb low 5th class rock for 150ft to the top (this can be pitch 5, depending on what you did for pitch 4).

Protection 

Standard rack, no giant gear needed, though a #3.5 camalot (and maybe a #4?) was useful. Stoppers useful also.