Note, some of these cliffs are often closed (Mar 3 - July 31) for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>
Closed areas, from March 3-July 31:
Twin Owls Bat Flake Batman Pinnacle Batman Rock Lightning Rock Checkerboard Rock Thunder Buttress The Parish
P1 down low.
Description
This is a great introduction to chimney climbing at Lumpy. Two full pitches up a chimney lead to a nice right-facing corner (with a Bombay slot), which takes you to the top of the Bookend. The route is moderate and the protection is plentiful. Bring kneepads and trail your pack from your harness for the first two pitches or leave it at the base.
This route begins about 15 meters uphill from Orange Julius in the large dihedral/chimney. Some easy scrambling is required to get to the base of this route. This route is easily viewed from the approach trail.
Protection
The protection on this route is excellent. A #3 Camalot is useful but not required.
Kneepads? What were you doing up there? You can stem, or face-climb, outside the chimney almost the entire way. You only have to get inside it for one section, passing a big chockstone 1/3 of the way up. That said, this is a super fun route; well worth the visit.
This is a most enjoyable adventure up a major feature on the Bookend. I would give it at least two stars. there is very little chimney or thrutchish climbing on it if you do it right.the gear is great, and it is chock full of good rock.
This excellent fissure drains several aspects of The Bookend. If it looks like rain you might want to include a kayak on the rack.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado May 9, 2004
For cluckers like me, a #4 Camalot is a nice option for that lieback R around the chockstone (crux, polished foot holds) 160ft up, if you remember to clip it. P1 190ft gets you to a nice ledge (though there are many to choose from). P2 120ft gets you to a huge ledge. P3 about 170 ft to the tree at the top. Nice shade on a hot day. Thanks, Chris.
Climbed here on Sat. 7/3/04. P1 was fun-easy arm bar/stem to stay somewhat out of the chimney. P2 was a little more interesting. The right side chimney looked too easy, so I decided to try the water trough on the left. Glad the rain that came through waited until I finished the pitch. I might have drowned. Pro was a little sketch, but a fun variation on the route. Maybe 5.8+? Rock quality was excellent until I found some choss near the top, very similar to J-tree. Great route overall.
Kneepads? Ha Ha... Yeah I don't really know what to say about that. I posted this page a long time ago. Still, it's humbling to see that I was such a gumby in the Spring of '01.
I remember those times fondly though... when 5.7 at Lumpy was a big number and 4 pitches took most of a day. Good stuff.
The Bookend
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